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1205- Womenswear Show Autumn/Winter 2015/16 in London

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Longline silhouettes and heavily worked fabrics; we could sum up the new 1205 collection with just this. the creator paula gerbase totally reinterprets the basics of the feminine wardrobe and promotes superimposing, volume and decoration as the themes chosen for autumn/winter. knitwear is worn as long dresses, jumpers, sleeveless coats and pleated skirts. white shirts tease with transparent effects, or are coordinated with reworked apron-style trousers and skirts. the parka is ultra light and slim fitting. we see very quickly that the decoration is to be found in the delicate aspect of the materials, and in the precise construction of the clothing. a certain uniform aspect is created by the neutral colours (marine, grey, white, khaki) heavily used by the designer who hails from the savile row world of tailoring, so for her the purity and depth of the clothing remains essential. to note: fitted knitwear dresses to put on and keep on forever. interview paula gerbase :i focus on uniform. my background is in tailoring and so it’s a subject that i am always interested in. how you align yourself to certain groups through different uniforms is something that i like to explore. fabric is vital, what i do is something that you wear, it’s an intimate attraction with the body, and i think it’s important to respect the customer also and to respect that interaction and that intimacy that you have with your own clothing, so fabric is very important and is the very beginning of what i do. i was trying to play with a level of restriction and more voluminous under layers with a little bit more restrictive over layers, and also volumes with the rings pierced through. that tension and contrast was quite interesting. purity is my word always; it’s always what i’m looking for not just in clothing but in a way of life as well.music from the show