LONDON, Feb 23, 2009 (AFP) - British designer Julien Macdonald unveiled his new autumn-winter collection Monday, showing sharp shoulders, strong lines and a mix of leather, wool and furs for women who mean business.

British designer Julien MacDonald unveiled his new autumn-winter collection - Photo : Adrian Dennis/AFP

Amid the grandeur of the 17th century Banqueting House, Macdonald sent models down the runway in black mini dresses with leather belts, snakeskin skirts and jackets with zips, soft velvety fabrics and sheer chiffons.

There was a black wool dress, loose like a fishing net but still impeccably stylish, while similarly loose-knit bodies were covered with luxurious coloured furs.

Macdonald then stepped up the glamour, switching to a vivid blue silk jacket with sharp shoulder shapes and crystals at the waist and a black tuxedo with the glimpse of huge mirror shards underneath.

The reflective shards were also present in the upper sections of long, flowing gowns in pale greys and blues, and spread outwards across the breast and shoulders to finish in tiny crystals on barely-there chiffon sleeves.

One spectacular blue dress billowed out behind the model, attached only by a band of fabric around the breasts.

Earlier, Luella ditched last season's floral patterns in favour of a more punky look incorporating tweeds, leathers and chain belts.

And Ossie Clark, under creative director Avsh Alom Gur, had a 1970s feel with full-length dresses with empire lines in bright orange and red.