Kim Jones and Eli Russell Linnetz: A perfect match for Dior Men's 2023 capsule
Dior and its artistic director Kim Jones landed in California a few days ago to unveil the label's 2023 capsule collection.
If Kim Jones preferred to settle in the Château Marmont, the West Hollywood hotel recently converted into a "private club", the Dior show took place in the Venice district, where the studio of Californian designer Eli Russell Linnetz is located.
Under a dark gray sky, and a few drops of rain, which is rare in Los Angeles, the Dior show opened on Windward Avenue, between two buildings, the traditional “Venice” light garland displayed Dior and ERL for the event. The avenue, between Venice Boulevard and the seafront, it is one of the historic arteries of Venice, long occupied by canals and converted into a cobbled thoroughfare in the late 1930s.
In the midst of robots filming the event at 360 degrees, the all-ocean blue setting was dotted with a few neon palm trees. There, the event's 600 guests, including Christina Aguilera, Christina Ricci, Nicola Peltz and even South Korean rapper Sehun, ambassador of the Dior house, in a shiny purple sweater, took their places to attend the show.
On the parade program, 40 silhouettes married the tailoring of the Dior house with the pop and offbeat spirit of Eli Russell Linnetz. Kicking off with a first look with a nonchalant allure proclaiming “School brother” and offered in oversized gray and metallic gray tones, a nod to the color dear to Christian Dior and the first Kim Jones collection for the Dior house.
The collection proceeded to a relaxed series of embroidered and feathered shorts, matched with sweaters with slogans reading “California Couture”, and with graphic and tinsel sweatshirts. Pastels were everywhere, in almond green, pink or lilac, blending with the colors of L.A.
Ubiquitous in the collection, the tinsel evoked Hollywood in its range of turquoise, red and silver, also appeared in a vertical stripe on pants and sweatshirts and on “minaudière” bags, brilliantly revisiting the famous saddle bag in a version for men. A supplement of glamor also seen in a beach cape also perfect to wear at a high-end party.
The quilted spirit was seen again on sweaters with California waves, on satin and leather skate sneakers as well as on pants reinterpreting the art of caning.
“We started looking at the Dior archive from the year of my birth, 1991," said Linnetz. "This was during Gianfranco Ferré’s period as artistic director and was a part of the history of Dior that felt completely fresh for both Kim and me. The idea of “maximalism” comes from there and from me – a coming together of chaos and perfectionism.”
Words that resonated with the last pieces in the collection, borrowing biographical elements from the Dior house and from the Californian designer, including T-shirts with newspaper prints, or the number 47, the year of Christian Dior's first haute couture collection, emblazoned on an ultra graphic and colorful sweatshirt.
The Dior capsule show concluded with a shiny, relaxed and refined white groom's suit, worn with an exquisite hat with a veil.
Convinced by the work of Linnetz, a Californian creative jack-of-all-trades, who collaborated as a video director for Kanye West, worked with Lady Gaga and the Kardashians, Kim Jones acknowledged his admiration for an artist who sees Dior from a different angle. “With Eli Russell Linnetz, not only do I like this work but working with a younger designer on Dior men and seeing things, from his perspective felt incredibly inspiring," said Jones.
In parallel with the physical show, the house of Dior broadcast from the Horizon Venues platform, allowing owners of Oculus helmets to live a unique experience, both live and in virtual reality by inviting themselves into an amphitheater surrounded by other users' avatars.
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