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Nicola Mira
Dec 14, 2021
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JW Anderson, 1017 Alyx 9SM to show at Milan Fashion Week Men

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Dec 14, 2021

The programme for the next edition of Milan Fashion Week Men, scheduled on January 14-18, will be brief but intense. The fashion week will focus on the menswear collections for the Fall/Winter 2022-23, and will include a number of physical shows - 23, as opposed to three in June - and no fewer than eight major soirees. Above all, there is a breath of fresh air about this fashion week, despite lingering uncertainties about the pandemic. There will be six new names on the calendar, including three of the edgiest labels in contemporary fashion - JW Anderson, 1017 Alyx 9SM and 44 Label Group - and three intriguing emerging labels: Federico Cina, JordanLuca and Justin Gall.

The latest Parisian show by JW Anderson, for the Fall/Winter 2020-21 - © PixelFormula

“[JW Anderson, 1017 Alyx 9SM and 44 Label Group] are well-established young labels, while the three other new names are extremely influential on the fashion scene right now,” said Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI) President Carlo Capasa, speaking at the press conference held on Monday for the calendar’s presentation. As was announced last month, talented British designer Jonathan Anderson, currently the creative director of LVMH-owned Spanish luxe label Loewe, has dropped out of the Paris calendar, and will unveil his own label’s new collection in Milan on the evening of Sunday January 16.

On Friday January 14, another rising Parisian runway star will be opening Milan Fashion Week: US designer Matthew Williams, also the creative director of Givenchy, the French label owned by LVMH. Williams will show in Milan the men’s and women’s collections for his own label, 1017 Alyx 9SM, launched in 2015 and renowned for its sophisticated contemporary style. As Capasa said, “Matthew founded his label in New York, but its headquarters are in the Italian city of Ferrara,” where Williams set up his atelier in 2017, to be closer to his producers and suppliers.

Also showing on Friday 14 is 44 Label Group, the latest gem unearthed by Claudio Antonioli, who played an early part in Off-White’s success. The luxury streetwear label, which will be unveiling its first collection, was launched by Claudio, the owner of Milanese multibrand retailer Antonioli, in collaboration with Max Kosobil, a renowned Berlin-based techno DJ and producer.

As for Federico Cina, JordanLuca and Justin Gall, they are no longer unknown quantities. Cina launched his own label in 2019, and in the same year he won the Who Is On Next? emerging designer competition. He joined Milan’s digital calendar in 2020, and this year he was a semi-finalist at the prestigious LVMH Prize. Justin Gall has caught the eye on Milan Fashion Week's digital showcase, on which he debuted in 2020. The US designer founded his outerwear brand, with a futuristic warrior aesthetic, in Rome in 2014, with Chiara Nardelli.

JordanLuca is a small, emerging menswear label that has so far showed in London. It notably gained visibility after being picked by Gucci for its video festival last year, and this year it was selected among the labels distributed on the Kering group's leading label's e-concept store, Gucci Vault. JordanLuca was launched in 2018 by Italian designer Luca Marchetto and British milliner Jordan Bowen, its distinctive street couture vibe blending London street culture with Italian tailoring and finishings. 

A look by JordanLuca for the Fall/Winter 2021-22 - © PixelFormula

Alongside these new labels, all the top names in Italian fashion, from Zegna to Armani, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Prada and Dsquared2, will be showing in Milan as usual. Notably, CNMI decided to concentrate all physical shows and events in the fashion week’s first four days, from January 14 to 17, while the last day, Tuesday 18, will be dedicated to digital shows, among them those by A-Cold-Wall, Children of the Discordance and Serdar. The following labels will be joining the Milanese physical presentation calendar for the first time: Ardusse, Çanaku, Family First, Dhruv Kapoor and Jet Set.
CNMI is optimistic about the fashion week, and also announced a number of gala evenings and parallel events, such as the after-shows by 1017 Alyx 9SM and 44 Label Group, the anniversary party by C.P. Company, and the concert organised by Gucci with Australian electropop band Parcels. “Everything will be organised in full compliance with existing health regulations in terms of venue capacity and ventilation systems, while mask-wearing will be mandatory and access will be possible only by showing the so-called Super Green Pass [vaccination certification],” said Capasa. “The vaccination drive is in full flow in Italy. After reaching its peak, the number of Covid cases is expected to decrease, and this gives us confidence,” concluded Capasa.
In total, 47 labels will take part in this edition of Milan Fashion Week Men, with 68 events on the programme. One of the most eagerly awaited events is the eighth edition of Fashion Film Festival Milano, whose jury will be chaired by the Creative Director of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli. The festival will showcase 260 films from 60 countries, and will close with the screening of a documentary entitled ‘Elio Fiorucci - free spirit’. Also on the programme, the first feature film by John Galliano, co-directed with Olivier Dahan, entitled ‘A Folk Horror Tale’.

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