Issey Miyake brings desert vibes to Paris

By

Kanako NISHIO

Published
Jun 22, 2017

Under the scorching Parisian sun, Issey Miyake Men’s collection traveled vast stretches on June 22. For its spring-summer 2018 collection, Yusuke Takahashi, artistic director of the brand since 2013, reinvented the brand’s iconic code and materials from the 1970s around a "Desert" theme.

In the great staircase of the Université Pierre and Marie Curie, models walked slowly, as if the heat was a bother. The location played on the chosen theme, which according to the designer, "resembles a dune". Yusuke Takahashi mentioned that he was inspired by the desert landscapes thanks to a trip he took in sand-filled regions last year.
 
The first looks featuring wrap-around tops and pleated drop crotch pants emphasized the double-sided cotton fabric (one of the house’s iconic materials since the 1970s), which gave a soft texture, and easy and comfortable look to the collection. Playing with the “shrinking” technique, the collection had a wavy effect, imitating the curves of desert sand as well.

Beside texture, the collection also featured a lot of prints. A diagonal striped pattern, created by a craftsman using traditional techniques on a shirt, creates the look of a stratum. Meanwhile, fluidity is expressed in tunic tops, while pleated drop crotch pants are displayed in different colors.
 
Colors are not limited to the neutral pallets of the sand. Instead, bright orange, intense blue, gradation and contrast were also some of the elements that inspired Yusuke Takahashi during his trip through the desert. "I put all the colors of the landscape. The orange of the sunset, the blue of the sky, etc.” he says.
 
The final looks of the show offered rather large silhouettes as way to provide comfort to a "powerful" man, ready to face the harsh desert climate, but still featuring slightly fitted detailing such as the bottom zip of the drop crotch pants.
 

“I was largely inspired by a 1970s book called Issey Miyake: East Meets West and studied the archives of the house," said the designer. “The broad silhouette of the time has now come back into fashion, but I wanted to modernize elements using technical materials like polyester or nylon."
 
Looks were complemented by shoulder bags, a tote and, for shoes, models made of mesh with elastic bands to adapt to all environments.
 
"What we offer is everyday clothing, which creative people can get to work in," he adds. As a bonus for comfort and refinement, Issey Miyake Men focuses on practicality. Thanks to their innovative materials, many items are very simple to care for.
 
This is an absolute must to attract customers to the brand, which has six stores in Europe (two in Paris, two in London, one in Zurich), plus two stores in New York and a dozen in Asia.