Hermès plays with variations of primary colours

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Mar 1, 2020

The décor at the latest Hermès show consisted of a vast sand-coloured carpet, from which rose a multitude of white posts with coloured bands, instantly recognisable as the bars from show jumping fences. This quirky staging set the tone for the colourful Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection unveiled by the French saddle maker on Saturday evening. 
  

Indeed, creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski had taken her inspiration from show jumping competitions to create a highly functional collection where leather was king, while also mixing in other materials seamlessly. Skirts and long waistcoats were worn under coats in padded leather, which put one in mind of the blankets used to cover horses.

The collection paid a heartfelt tribute to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The first part, in particular, included a series of pieces in the primary colours so dear to the Parisian designer, while also playing with his fun sporty style.

The shades of yellow, cyan and magenta that decorated the fence bars around the runway could also be found in monochrome polo dresses, fine turtleneck sweaters, the pleats of a dress and patchwork jumpers which recalled jockey silks – one sleeve blue, the other yellow, while the front was red. 

To underline the hommage to de Castelbajac, Vanhee-Cybulski had invited the designer to the show and didn't hesitate to put him centre stage post show, telling journalists that "in the 1980s, he was ultra-modern." The Parisian designer seemed touched by the gesture. 
 
The remainder of the collection concentrated on outerwear in a neutral palette built around shades of white, black, beige and chocolate. Waterproofs in tough gabardine, rubbed shoulders with parkas, puffer jackets and parka-dresses. "The collection aims to be practical, utilitarian and beautiful," explained the creative director.

Following this logic, the hoods were removable, the leather was waterproof, the pockets were deep and the conception versatile. The collars of the pullovers were even equipped with a kind of woollen ring in which a scarf could be secured so as not to blow away. 

The leather pants were numerous, while lamb, calf and goatskins were also used to make coats, pleated skirts, blazers, mannish suits and jackets with pronounced shoulders.