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Gosha Rubchinskiy takes his bad boys' gang to Pitti Uomo
The Pitti Uomo trade show features a very hip programme this season. Besides Raf Simons, who will bring the show to an end on Thursday evening, the menswear event managed to attract Gosha Rubchinskiy, the Russian streetwear and sportswear prodigy. Rubchinskiy has enjoyed a meteoric rise after linking up with Adrian Joffe, the President of Comme des Garçons.
Rubchinskiy, 31, is one of Pitti Uomo's special guests and on Wednesday evening he set his sights for his show on the former Manifattura Tabacchi, a 1930s tobacco factory lying totally abandoned on the edge of Florence. He had already used the factory as location for a short film last spring.
The film, directed by Renata Litvinova, is entitled The day of my death. It was screened just after the show in the very same building, a throw-back to Soviet architecture. A photography book was also presented at the event.
Gosha Rubchinskiy recruited the show's models on Instagram, and the forty boys he selected looked all identical, with their close-cropped hair, athletic appearance and grumpy demeanour.
Wearing sneakers, retro tracksuits and loose sweatshirts and chains on their necks, they were reminiscent of Pier Paolo Pasolini's "Ragazzi di vita", the rent boys plying their trade in Rome's suburbs described by the Italian poet, writer and director, who inspired the Russian designer for his Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
Of course the theme was transposed by Rubchinskiy to the sort of post-Soviet Russia which permeates his world, combining the brutal, tormented aesthetic of young Muscovite culture with sophisticated sportswear details and artistic concepts drawn from photography and cinema.
The collection borders on minimalism and features allusions to sporting brands, as in previous Gosha Rubchinskiy collections. This time he played with three Italian labels: Fila, Sergio Tacchini and Robe di Kappa.
His wardrobe seems designed for adolescents: it includes corduroy jackets and trousers (a new take on two classic Levi's models), large sailor-style sweaters and wide, frayed Bermuda shorts, and will not fail to delight the fans of this cult brand.
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