Giorgio Armani: Yet another masterclass in tailoring

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 15, 2018

On a freezing Monday morning in Milan, the fashion flock descended to the south of the city to witness the fall 2018 collection of Giorgio Armani and they were, quite simply, treated to a master class in tailoring.
 

Every look was imbued with the Armani DNA of luxury understatement and controlled panache. A collection made in Armani’s unique non-color palette; in 40 shades of gray.
 
A collection that underlined how this 83-year-old designer is still breaking new ground. Little wonder he now plans to take an Emporio Armani show abroad for a major gala event in the spring – even if, for the moment, the house would not confirm the location.

Above all, it was Armani cutting some great new jackets; whether perfectly judged pale gray houndstooth versions shortened but with eight buttons; or ideal loose double-breasted suits in a velvety Prince of Wales check; or an impeccable crinkly corduroy suit made with his new forgiving tapered pant finished just below the ankle. The majority of the looks containing tints of gray, like the pale concrete back wall inside Teatro Armani, designed by the great Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
 
Add in some fresh new tulip neck waistcoats; snazzy pale khaki cargo pants; several massive Yeti coats; a series of woven leather hiking boots – perfect for a chilly morning in Lombardy – and some great new totes in erratically dimpled leather and all together this was a great fashion statement.
 
“A free and gentle elegance,” commented a sibylline Armani, looked thoroughly tanned after a Christmas break in his house in Antigua. In effect, leading the pack in Italy in a major trend this weekend, the return of classy poetic fashion.
 
His next stop: off to Paris this weekend to prepare his Armani Privé haute couture show. Then in the spring a major Emporio bash. The sun never really sets on this fashion leader’s global empire.