From the Paris runway: Sacai

Sacai always takes viewers into a unique, intimate universe which is serious while at the same time creative and imaginative. From backstage and alongside the runway, Paris Modes' Sophie de Champsavin and Natalia Grgona share their impressions on the presentation.

For Chitose Abe, the Japanese founding designer, shapes and colors are on the rise. For next winter, great emphasis is put on the enveloping coats: the collars are high and the linings escape beyond the fur coats. It's all in the detailing, like with arms which seem to detach themselves, these combinations of materials, and these highly worked leathers added onto the back.

Pleats become light on the skirts and dresses. Bermuda shorts are worn loosely and wool appears twisted. Neon pink and yellow appear in lines on the curved ensembles, bringing a touch of vibrancy. A precise collection, for this much talked about Japanese house.

Worth a closer look: the skintight trousers worn with platform shoes.