Emerging labels shine at Tranoï show in Paris
The Tranoï trade show brought together some 30 emerging labels for its January 2022 edition, the second to be staged at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris after the one held in June 2021. The exhibitor numbers fell short of the target of 40 set by Tranoï president Boris Provost, but was in line with “the [show’s] new positioning for menswear, based on emerging designers, making [Tranoï] an occasion for discovering new trends and surprising, unique collections.” Many international buyers did not travel to Paris, but Japanese and Korean ones were able to explore the show through live-streamed content. French buyers, including representatives of department stores and multibrand retailers, instead took advantage of the event and of the nearby Sphère showroom to put in an appearance, bringing fresh energy to Tranoï.
Team spirit by Mworks
In addition to Ouest Paris, the label styled by Arthur Paris, a designer whose intriguing cv includes stints at AMI and Maison Kitsuné and whose label caught the eye at the show, several other labels did stand out. It was the case of Mworks (formerly Mansour Martin), first presented at the Sphère showroom and exhibiting at Tranoï this season. Mworks, launched by Mansour Badjoko and Martin Liesnard, is a label “driven by creative freedom and conceived as a collaborative space putting artists, artisans and other designers centre stage,” said Liesnard, presenting his fourth collection at Tranoï.
Mworks is distributed at Le Printemps’s Haussmann branch and on the Parisian department store’s e-shop, and also in Berlin and at BDC (Boys Don’t Cry) Paris. Its new collection features shirts designed with illustrator Jeanne Detallante, “items in organic cotton featuring prints made with a system that uses virtually no water,” sexy sailor jackets created with upcycled materials from Nona Source, the website set up by LVMH that resells unique fabrics from unsold inventory, other tops made in recycled nylon with an incredibly authentic leather feel, and a selection of sweaters made in France using Italian wool, designed in collaboration with students from the ENSAIT academy in Roubaix.
Denzilpatrick’s new poetry
Daniel Gayle, born in London and a former designer at Phillip Lim, Victoria Beckham and Kenzo, took advantage of the global health crisis in 2021 to develop the first collection for his own label Denzilpatrick. “The name is a tribute to my roots and to my grandfathers, Denzil and Patrick, the first from Jamaica, the second from Ireland. Both of them arrived in London in the mid-50s, ready to write a new chapter in their life in what was at times a hostile environment.”
Basing himself on family history and the stories he was told about it, Gayle has designed a second collection inspired “by a sense of being armoured, both literally and emotionally, by a feeling of protection, everything steeped in colours and a new joy of living.” Playing with contrasting materials and prints, the Denzilpatrick wardrobe features oversize coats alongside garments made with upcycled and recycled fabrics, like the colourful sweatshirts and cashmere pullovers. It includes matching sets in powder pink velvet, floral-print shirts made in London and Portugal, and even lace shirts with tie-dye effects. Gayle’s fashion is both nostalgic and innovative, laced with a fresh poetic vein that seems about to flourish.
The Stolen Garment, or the art of movement
Jungwoo Park is a Korean designer born in Seoul. He studied at London’s Central Saint Martins and returned to Korea to launch his own label in 2018. His men’s collection is casual and highly wearable, “fashion that is inspired by ballet and by choreography, a subject taught by my older sister, [clothes] in which body movements are allowed to be free.” Park exhibited shirts with luminous, sensual velvet effects, joggers in quilted, embossed fabric, matching sets decorated with dreamily poetic prints, and reversible oversize raincoats in canvas and leather.
Christened The Stolen Garment in a nod to Park’s first collection, which was stolen hours after his graduation show at Central Saint Martins - some of the garments were found worn by a homeless man in London - the label is already available at many department stores in Seoul, and by exhibiting at Tranoï it hopes to make inroads into France and Europe. The Stolen Garment’s collections are complemented by jewellery and accessories designed by Park's other sister. As part of the Geometry Study collective, the Park family stages an annual dance performance featuring accessories and jewellery.
A look by De Pino
De Pino’s free looks
Born in France of Portuguese parents, Gabriel Figueiredo first studied at the École Duperré in Paris and at La Cambre fashion academy in Brussels. He collaborated with Principal magazine in Porto and then returned to Paris to practice with various edgy designers, including Georgia Pendlebury, before joining Maison Margiela, where he has been working on embroidered items for a number of seasons. Figueiredo launched his own label De Pino in 2020, and presented his first solo collection at Tranoï.
“[De Pino] is a label that explores the idea of femininity and seduction free from any constraint. It features evening gowns and party dresses that can be worn by any gender, light, flowing crocheted items that hint at a dress or a skirt, sensual, intimate jersey garments that seem time-worn, as well as accessories, like the miniature mini-bikinis that lend the body a fun, childish silhouette,” said Figueiredo. Artisanal fashion that plays with proportions and is increasingly wearable.
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